Sunday, January 7, 2007

Bald Guy Does Good Chocolate

I had a friend visiting from out of town, we were tired from a day of shopping in mid-town and around Union Square. We needed sustanance to keep us going as we were going out dancing that night. It was too early for dinner but to late for lunch. Coffee wasn't going to cut it. What to do? Oh! I remembered, there's this huge chocolate cafe across from Virgin Records...perhaps this was what we were looking for?

It being the week between Christmas and New Year's, the place was mobbed. I had read about Max Brenner's Chocolate by the Bald Man in the newspaper a while back...and apparently, so had every tourist in Manhattan. While it was crowded inside, the chaos was a bit charming because of the aroma of chocolate. The hostess told us there was a 10 minute wait for a table, so we started to wander around the store part of the cafe for a bit. Only two minutes passed by when she called for us.

The menu was incredible. About 7 or 8 pages of chocolate treats: different types of hot chocolate, chocolate cakes, cookies, ice cream, pie...we, for some reason, opted for probably the most un-indulgent choices: the blueberry muffin and the chocolate cookie. Accompanied by a peach iced tea and coffee.

At $6 each, I was skeptical at first. And the wait between ordering and receiving our food was quite long. For a while there we thought they had forgotten about us.

But when the food arrived, we were astonished. This was the most wonderful looking blueberry muffin and chocolate cookie ever! The muffin was served with a little cup of fresh butter, a little cup of melted chocolate and some mixed berries. The cookie was chocolate-chocolate chip. It was served with the berries and melted chocolate too, along with a cup of creme fraiche. The plate was dusted with confectionary sugar. While the cookie wasn't as chewy as I would have hoped, it was a lot of fun to dunk it in the melted chocolate. The berries and creme served as a wonderful side. The muffin was perfectly buttery and my friend enjoyed it quite a bit. The coffee was bold, but not burnt. And the ice tea was served in a ceramic tall glass with a metal straw. Very cool.

Looking around, the fondue seemed to be popular, along with cake and brownies.

In short, Not-New-Yorkers: you probably won't like the crowd and ambiance, but if you're in a pinch for sweets and chocolate, it's worth the six bucks. And if you have a guest from out of town - this is a great place to take them! My guest was impressed with the fun and innovative decor and the lively atmosphere.



Max Brenner: Chocolate by the Bald Man
841 Broadway, at 13th St.
212-388-0030
http://www.maxbrenner.com/home.aspx

It's Alive! Addendum to December post on Ushiwakamaru

We went to Ushiwakamaru again this weekend, except this time, with our Japanese friend, Katsuya. This meal was the best Ellen has ever had in her life, and for Mark (who's a bit more squeamish) pretty far up there. Having a Japanese guide helped. We didn't even look at the menu. Our friend deftly chose things for us to try based on what he knew we liked already, incorporating some new dishes that we had never had before.

To start, we had white shrimp sushi. This was perhaps one of the best pieces of sushi we have ever tried. The white shrimp is raw and perfectly clear. It is stuck to a little ball of rice with a dab of fresh wasabi. It's room-temperature and really soft, which made it melt in our mouths. Really amazing.

Next the waitress asked us if we wanted to try that night's special, live shrimp. We asked Katsuya if this was true, and making a motion of walking with his fingers, he confirmed our disbelief (his English is a work in progress). Promptly the waitress brought over three raw shrimp sushi pieces. This time they were gray (i.e. very raw) in color, with the tails attached. And one tail twitched. "No way!" Ellen shrieked (hopefully not too loud). Mark was astonished. Ellen's face turned red at the thought of putting a semi-live shrimp in her mouth as she laughed outloud. The waitress and our friend were laughing at us. How do you say "gringos" in Japanese? (Mark reminded me it's "gai-jin".)

Ellen bargained with Katsuya. He was to eat the live one first. Then she would eat the one next to it...apparently more dead. He casually lifted the wiggling crustation with his chopsticks, kissed it and apologized for taking it's little delicious life, smeared wasabi over it and popped it in his mouth. No drama. It apparently tasted very good. So Ellen and Mark followed suit. With a lot of wasabi. After tasting it, we felt bad for causing such a scene. The shrimp was exceptional. The flavor was full and fresh, while it was room temperature, because it obviously hadn't been stored on ice. "Next time," Katsuya said to Ellen, "You will grab the live shrimp and bite it with no problem!"

The rest of the meal continued to delight and amaze. We had a garden salad that accompanied the fish well. Again the spider roll (deep-fried whole soft-shell crab) was crisp and fresh tasting. The negitoro roll and otoro (fatty tuna) sashimi melted as they did the first time. We also tried an otoro steak, seared for what must have been a nanosecond and served sushi style with ponzu on top. Delicious! The broiled cod with miso was just as good as last time. New to our palates this time were fried shrimp heads. Here we disagreed. Ellen loved them. To her they had the quality of a snack: salty, crispy and pleasant. Mark could not disagree more, feeling that they tasted like a rubber tire. For the record, it was the first shrimp head Mark had ever eaten. Ellen agreed to eat his portion next time!

We also tried the tempura here. Served with a wonderful light sauce and shredded daikon, the shrimp, onion, potato and asparagus all were flavorful and light. Another new dish, the beef sushi, was similar to the otoro steak, very-briefly seared and placed over rice with a pungent dab of horseradish-tasting sauce on the top.

To top it all off, for desert we sampled the black sesame ice cream and vanilla mochi. The mochi were light and doughy, perfectly sized and delightful. The ice cream was equally as fresh tasting.

Additionally, as Katsuya is a friend of head chef Hideo, we got to sample his "smuggled" sho chu. Not for sale in the U.S., this drink was fragrant, light as water and paired exceptionally well with the meal. It also got us rocked.

Overall, we believe that Ushiwakamaru is one of the best restaurants in New York City. It's service is exceptional, the price is fair and the food is consistantly fresh, well-prepared and delicious. Oh yeah, having a translator helps, too. :-)

Sunday, December 17, 2006

Otoro is to Japan as White Truffles are to Italy

We have tasted perfection and its name is Ushiwakamaru. This Japanese restaurant on W. Houston Street is home to quite possibly the best sushi in New York City. We dined there last night for Ellen's birthday and both agree it is an experience worth repeating.

We had an early reservation which enabled us to sit at the sushi bar, right in front of the three chefs. Watching them prepare for the evening meal was worth eating early. We witnessed them sharpening their knives with the wet stone, perfectly filleting a variety of fish, preparing the vegetables and condiments - all with surgically precise movements. We hadn't tasted a bite yet, but it was beautiful.

Mark has visited Ushiwakamaru before, under the guidance of some Japanese friends. So we had an idea of what we were after - specifically Otoro, the fatty belly of the tuna fish. We decided to order a few things at a time, to pace ourselves and savor this magnificent culinary experience. After all, this restaurant has the atmosphere of being in Japan, not lower Manhattan.

Before ordering, a waitress brought us two small dishes of marinated mushrooms and onions to prepare our appetites. Mark and I both ordered shochu on the rocks with lemon - a liquor made from sweet potatoes (usually) that tastes like fragrant water and has the uncanny ability to put the crabbiest curmudgeon into the best of moods. Shochu pairs well with sushi, better than wine ever could. It's sweetness acts like a palette cleanser, not unlike pickled ginger, and it prepares your taste buds for the next bite.

To start we ordered Saikyoyaki, (a marinated, broiled fillet of cod), a spider roll (soft shell crab) and negitoro, a roll made of otoro and scallions. The cod had been marinated in miso and broiled so that the miso caramelized slightly on the outside, giving the fish a sweet flavor and buttery texture. It was presented artfully on a banana leaf with a sword-like shoot that looked something like a heart of palm and was accompanied with what appeared to be shredded, fried sweet potatoes. The crunchy potato and the sweet, melty fish made for a wonderful pair. The spider roll was cut in five pieces: two "heads", and three middle pieces. On the heads, you could see the light batter coating the soft crab shell; inside was a whole crab, layered with avocado and cucumber. This was the freshest tasting, most delightful spider roll we have ever had. Next we sampled the otoro roll. We had the pleasure of watching the chef in front of us make this. He expertly moistened the nori, applied steaming rice (we noted how it was still a little warm) and then a handful of semi-mashed otoro and scallion. The rice warmed the otoro just enough to allow the fat of the tuna to blend with the scallion and rice - soooo good! We savored each piece as the tuna simply melted away in our mouths. Ellen then decided she needed to try otoro sashimi - an unadulterated version of this fish - in order to experience it the way nature intended.

We asked our waitress for otoro sashimi and the sushi deluxe - approximately 12 pieces of sushi including jackfish, amberjack, otoro (again!), large clam, egg (tamago), eel (unagi), mackerel, fluke and salmon. Each fish was "glued" to the rice with a dab of wasabi. The jackfish and amberjack were both light in taste and texture. The otoro sashimi was divine, the entire piece melting in Ellen's mouth as a tear of joy slowly came to her eye. The large clam was a bit tough, but we suppose this is how it should be. While we did not like it, we attributed it to a cultural difference rather than a diversion from quality - it was still extremely fresh. The egg was seasoned perfectly with salt and pepper, and as light as an omelette should be. The eel was incredible. If we were to go back, we would probably order an entire plate of this. The sweet sauce was light and not overpowering. The fish itself had a perfect texture, meaty but light. The mackerel and fluke were like the jack, fresh and sweet. The salmon was a winner. Ellen usually doesn't like this type of sushi, but she did at Ushiwakamaru. It was not stringy and had a light, rather than pungent flavor. Additionally, the sushi deluxe is served with miso soup or salad. We opted for the soup. It had a robust flavor and was served with a prawn's head for decoration. We asked the waitress if we were supposed to eat the prawn's head, and while she said some people suck out the insides (Ellen tried but was unsuccessful at this), some see it as only decoration. We think the head added a nice flavor to the soup.

The winner for the night however was the otoro sashimi. At $8 for one piece, this certainly seems extravagant. However, the head chef Hideo made this himself - with a gleaming two-foot-long knife. The otoro was cut into two smaller, bite-size pieces and served over shredded daikon. Ellen braced herself as she knew she was about to experience culinary perfection. The otoro first is a cool and pleasant tasting fish, but as it sits in your mouth, it develops into a buttery, full-flavored delight. The fish literally melts in your mouth and as you begin to chew, the flavor intensifies in the same way that a truffle would. It is the most delightful experience. While Ellen savored the two pieces in maybe three minutes - she estimated the pleasure was worth so much more than the price.

We both decided to skip dessert, and enjoy a cup of green tea as we were happily full - energized and not overstuffed. Plus, the shochu still provided a gleeful feeling as we exited Ushiwakamaru two hours later, feeling as if we had indeed traveled to Japan.

Overall, this is the best restaurant we have experienced in New York City. While the price is a bit high for our wallets, it was worth every penny! Ushiwakamaru makes other Japanese restaurants look like the Olive Garden. The quality, experience, unpretentious atmosphere, expert service and cleanliness make for an unforgettable culinary experience.

And trust us, this blog is still about eating cheap, but it was Ellen's BIRTHDAY!!!

http://www.ushiwakamaruny.com
136 W Houston StreetNew York
NY 10012-2512
(212) 228-4181

Saturday, December 16, 2006

Holy Guacamole! (and Mango Margaritas to boot)

For the holiday season my (Ellen's) office decided to celebrate our yearly achievements at the very-well-known Gabriela's on the upper west side. We went for lunch, sneaking in by the 3:00 deadline for the well-priced lunch specials as well as being offered the full dinner menu.

We were a party of 12 and were seated immediately at a crowded but lovely wooden table. One side of the table was furnished with beautiful green wooden chairs, while the other side had a comfortable leather bench with attractive pillows. The table was covered in lovely woven place mats and a waiter promptly appeared to suggest some guacamole for the table and take our drink orders.

The margaritas at Gabriela's are almost famous (at least they were the topic of office chatter for the week leading up to our holiday party). They have mango, prickly pear, hibiscus, strawberry - as well as the regular lime margarita. At the suggestion of a friend who is a regular at Gabriela's, I went for the mango. I was not disappointed! Frozen and perfectly blended, it arrived in an ample, yet not-too-heavy stemmed glass, oddly garnished with a lime and bright orange in color. The taste was out of this world. The sweetness of the mango blended perfectly with the margarita's regular ingredients to make the perfect accompaniment to my meal.

The guacamole arrived in cute conical glasses, garnished with radish, radicchio and a light crumbled cheese. It was hand mashed, not food-processed, and the cilantro was fragrant but not overpowering. The chips were served warm and were made in-house. The salsa for the table was delicious, but very skimpy, and not replaced by the waitstaff. They also served a more piquant version of a citrus salsa that had a wonderful garlic and lime flavor.

Most of the dishes appeared to be a blend of Tex-Mex and traditional Mexican cuisine. Their Pollo Yucateco was available either as a lunch special, a dinner entree or as a filling in their tacos. As a dinner it was served with a choice of mole, poblano or pipian. While I opted for the tacos, I do wish I had ordered the lunch or dinner version. As I saw from other plates, it was a beautiful half of a roasted chicken, and the sauce appeared light and the chicken moist. The chicken in my taco was dry and I needed a lot of lime juice to enjoy it. The refried beans were light and flavorful, as was the rice. I would order extra beans next time, as the serving was a bit skimpy and I would have liked to enjoy more of this dish.

Other folks at our table ordered the Fajitas, which were generous and steaming, the steak tacos which did not appear dry like my chicken ones and of course the Pollo Yucateco, which certainly is a speciality. On the menu, of course, are standard Cali-Tex-Mex items like fish tacos and a variety of salads, as well as more traditional Mexican dishes such as carnitas, Parillada Mixta - a plate of pork ribs, Yucatan chicken and chorizo (if I return, this is what I am trying), Huachinango a la Veracruzana - red snapper with roasted tomatoes, olives, peppers and onions, and the usual fare of enchiladas, burritos and chimichangas.

For dessert, our table sampled the crepes, mango cheesecake, seven layer chocolate cake and the rice pudding. All were wonderful, while the crepes and cheesecake were my favorite. The mango and raspberry sauces for the cheese cake were definitely made with fresh fruit in-house, and the caramel and ice cream served with the crepes made for a wonderful combination of hot and cold. We had caffe' con leche with our meal which had a lovely head on it and was lightly flavored with cinnamon.

I rate Gabriela's a B+ overall. The service was slow and inattentive. The ladies' bathrooms, while lovely, were not stocked with TP and were not clean. The food was good, but not as traditional as I had hoped. Yet the atmosphere is comfortable and lively, the decor is beautiful - the front doors are impressive, as is the alfresco dining on the sidewalk and the blue and white dinner plates - and the price was competitive, especially for the neighborhood. The layout of the restaurant is well-thought out. There are pillars and tapestries dividing certain sections, so while the restaurant could probably accommodate more than 200 diners at one time, it appears intimate and private. Their U-shaped bar has plenty of seats and would be a great place for an after-work drink or for some appetizers.

Bottom line: go for lunch. The lunch menu was almost half the price of the dinner menu and the portions were almost the same.

http://www.gabrielas.com/

688 Columbus Avenue
between 93rd and 94th Streets
212.961.9600

Sunday, December 3, 2006

A little bird told me...

Our favorite corner bar, Sparrow, just launched their "training wheels menu" of organic and artfully inspired sandwiches, salads and soups. Mark and I love going there to visit our favorite bartender, Mano and have a Danesi espresso or cappuccino, a campari and soda or to have a frosty pint of my new favorite Hefe-Weissbier, Julius Echter (with about 25 other imported beers to choose from!).

But now - we may have a new favorite locale for lunch or late dinner too! Last night I sampled their Roast Beef Sandwich. This classic New York nosh is served on a fresh baguette with sauteed mixed mushrooms, sliced Gruyere and mayo. On the side, their very special cabbage and arugula house salad. The size of the sandwich was perfect (read: pretty big) and the combination of the rare-cooked meat, juicy mushrooms and mellow cheese couldn't have been better! Evan, the owner and chef (and a raging perfectionist) has been working hard at developing a simple, refined menu for the bar's local and relaxed clientele. We think he's succeeded!

Other wonderful considerations: the olive plate (Scott loved the Greek manouri cheese!) and a fennel salad. They have two or more soups a day - and the price is right on the money. $6 - 9 for a sandwich and salad, not to mention a bunch of beers at $5 each. Mark's been eyeing the chorizo sandwich...you know, he's there right now. I bet he caved!

Come stop by Sparrow - you'll see us there tomorrow...and the next day...and the next...

OK...seriously - we go there a lot.

Sparrow
Corner of 24th Ave. and 29th St.
Astoria, Queens
(http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendID=567648)

Note from Mark: As of press time, I had not sampled the chorizo and mozzarella sandwich, but Scott was in the process of devouring one. As he put it: "This is pretty f___ing good". I'll leave it at that.

Wednesday, November 29, 2006

I'd rather be punched in the...

Sac's Place.

This place has received glowing reviews from a number of sources, so Ellen, Scott and I went in expecting something very special and authentic. We were let down in a horrible way: we left still hungry.

Let me state, first and foremost, that Ellen and I can be very unforgiving when it comes to Italian cuisine. We grew up in Italian families, we've been to and lived in Italy for extended periods (more than 2 years, in my case) and we both speak Italian. In fact, I'm doing my PhD in it. We live, breathe and sweat garlic and olive oil, which is why this particular culinary undertaking insulted us down to our Parmigiano-Reggiano-encrusted cores. We really, really wanted to give this place a fair shot because of all the good reviews and word-of-mouth.

Anyway, we met Scott after work to get a couple of pizzas and relax. As we arrived at the restaurant, a drummer was seated in the window, setting up for the restaurant's live jazz night. We stepped into the strangely dim eatery and were promptly seated, since it was only 6pm and apparently no one else in this backwards world gets hungry before midnight. Upon inspecting the menu, we were confronted with a dilemma that is common to most white-tablecloth restaurants in the area - price. A small pizza margherita for 9.95?! We bit our tongues, expecting to be pleasantly surprised... superior quality merits a superior price, right?

We ordered 3 small pizzas - one with tomatoes and anchovies, no cheese; one with mozzarella and sausage, and one margherita. I asked the waiter for a glass of Montepulciano and, as he headed for the kitchen, I noticed the two busboys - dead-eyed guido teenagers, much like myself in days of yore - leaning against the railing leading into the atrium where we were sitting. Directly in front of us. Just... leaning. Staring at us.

...

Still staring.

...

Don't get me wrong, I've spaced out at work before too... in fact, my current job requires it. But I make a concerted effort to not do it while transfixed on my co-workers (or customers, for that matter). After a few minutes of trying to ignore it, it started freaking me and Ellen out. We found ourselves beginning to speak so quietly that Scott had to yell "What?!" a few times. We even tried staring back, to no avail. We gave up when the pizza arrived. While this was in no way food related, dining is a holistic experience, and these two clowns totally blew the atmosphere.

Dinner time. At first blush, the pizzas looked to be high-quality: seemingly thin crust, not too much topping, obviously fresh anchovies, cheese, sausage. We were psyched to dig in, so we divvied up the pies and started chowing down.

The crust, while seemingly thin around the edges, actually got thicker and doughier toward the center and, consequently, was a little underdone on the cheese-less pizza. A big no-no. The crust was also missing the dark spots and bubbles that come from a well-done, airy dough. Rather than cracking when it was folded, the thinner edge of the crust shattered and the heavier, doughier center lolled down like dead limb. Not impressive. The cheese-covered pizzas came out a little better, with consistent doneness throughout.

The tomato sauce was the highlight by far: super-fresh, obviously San Marzano or some similar strain, and chunky enough to tell that it came from whole, peeled tomatoes and not some can of crushed puree. It was perfectly salted and really stood up to the anchovies and sausage. A+ for that part.

And so, as pizza disappeared, wine was quaffed, and the busboys stared us down, we got to our last respective slices (a mere five minutes later) and realized with more than a little dismay that we were still pretty damn hungry. We briefly contemplated ordering another pie, but at $20-$24 a pop, we decided to pay up and venture out in search of a better value.

In all, we would recommend Sac's pizza for an expensive snack or for an even more expensive meal, since one person could easily spend 25$ just on him/herself. The ambiance is nothing special, and will remain so as long as they continue to employ mouth-breathing, dead-eyed zombie teenagers as busboys. Who knows, maybe the live jazz wakes things up a bit. Otherwise, just don't be surprised if a funeral breaks out during dinner.

Bottom line: for our money, we can do just as well for a lot less cash.

Sac's Place
Location: 25-41 Broadway, Astoria, Queens
Phone: 718-204-5002

Sunday, November 26, 2006

At least the gyros are hot...

Hi! We're Ellen and Mark. We moved to New York City in early 2005, fresh-faced and with high expectations. We came here for school and, ironically, school is now the only thing keeping us here. We're counting the days until we can graduate and move to a place that has non-toxic air, apartments that are consistently larger than broom closets, and insects and vermin that are of the normal, smaller-than-Great-Danes variety.

But, something must be said: the one sustaining truth that keeps us sane in this filthy, rude, absurd city is that hands down, by far, no contest - New York City has the best food in America.

Surely, food is not enough to make us forget the drawbacks of metro living: our apartment has a hot water system that rivals those of most medieval cities. We're pretty sure it involves an intricate system of pullies and aqueducts extending directly from Siberia, ensuring a frigid, eye-opening personal hygiene experience each morning. We live under a highway and next to an elevated subway, which makes for quiet, pollution-free living. While commuting to Manhattan for school and work, we are sucker-punched by Cantonese grandmas, held captive by horrendous subway accordionists and assailed by an endless barrage of loud-talking, cell-phone-gripping 20-somethings, all of whom make more money than we do.

But despite all of this, we come home to Queens and, well - we're home. Within walking distance of our modest roach motel we have amazing Greek, Mexican, Thai, Japanese, Italian... There is also a plethora of bars, cafes and bakeries that make our daily lives tolerable. Hell, when the paycheck is a little bigger than expected, we sometimes even venture into Manhattan and beyond for certain delicacies.

So...that's why we're writing this blog. We want to share our culinary experiences with our friends and family so that they know that, despite our complete, utter disappointment in New York City, at least we're eating well. And if they visit, they'll know at least a few places that won't give them botulism or malaria.

We plan on reviewing all forms of culinaria all over the city, as we see fit. We are not professional food reviewers, but as you'll see, we do know quite a lot about food. We're also students (translation: we're broke), so don't expect to see Nobu or The Four Seasons being reviewed here. Price is a big part of the dining experience, and we will definitely be factoring it in with our food reviews. Our goal is to highlight low-to-mid priced places for people who don't work in finance but still want delicious, authentic culinary and mixological experiences.